Juliette Binoche once said, “What I like most about this crazy life is the adventure of it.” These words echoed in my soul while I was solo hiking to the Queen’s Bath on the north shore of Kauai.
Last updated: August 6, 2024
Adventures of This Crazy Life
Adrenaline rush, new experiences and discoveries, an opportunity to put our strengths to test are just a few things we expect from an adventure. For some of us, an adventurous trip includes a last-minute visit to a desert on the hottest day (will never do it again). Some skydive, climb mountains, and do extreme sports to build confidence and tolerance for the unknown.
Whatever the reason it may be, adventures reward us in many ways and help us learn a great deal about ourselves and what we are capable of. One of these adventurous moments for me was a hike to the Queen’s Bath, Kauai.
Beautiful and Cruel Queen’s Bath
I certainly didn’t expect my short solo hike down a muddy trail to one of the hidden beaches on Kauai to become an adventure. Located in picturesque Princeville on the north shore of the island, the infamous Queen’s Bath is far from a typical sandy beach with lush tropical greenery creating a natural boundary behind it.
Formed primarily of large black lava rocks, the Queen’s Bath area is a steep, rocky, and one of the most dangerous places on Kauai. The impressive lava shelf that towering 10 – 15 feet above sea level can create a false sense of security from time to time. This safety, however, vanishes at once in the face of the deadly surf with crashing waves that rise 4 feet and above.
DANGER: These gigantic tides are known for sweeping over the rocks and pulling oblivious beachgoers into the water. Getting out of the ocean in this unforgiving terrain is difficult. People have drowned after being swept off the rocks at the Queen’s Bath.
TIP: Although the biggest surfs usually happen in winter, from October through May, the unpredictable high waves can arrive at any season and any time of the day. It’s not recommended and in fact highly discouraged to visit the Queen’s Bath without checking the surf report beforehand. And even if everything is clear, try to stay away from the edges at any time.
Is Queen’s Bath Worth Visiting?
Why then so many people hike to the Queen’s Bath despite the potential danger? The answer to this question is hidden in the clear waters that can be good for occasional snorkeling when the tide is low, normally in the summer, and the history of this natural tide pool on the northern shore of Kauai.
Separated from the ocean by the lava rocks, the unique pool was named after the mother of Prince Albert who, reportedly, used it once as a bathing place. Centuries have passed since Princess Louise of Saxe Gotha Altenburg relaxed on the lava shore, but the Queen’s Bath, an immortal witness of the island’s history and its natural beauty, still allures adventurous ocean whisperers and nature lovers.
Exploring the North Shore of Kauai
I started my hike completely unaware of the deadly history and dangerous side of the Queen’s Bath…
Roshan, Dylan, and I were driving for a little bit over an hour in an attempt to find Secret (Kauapea) Beach. It was late afternoon when we finally reached a narrow road on the left hand side to the entrance to Kilauea Lighthouse. We hoped it was the way to the beach.
My phone showed 4:03 p.m. and, alas, the road was closed. After exchanging a few words with other unlucky visitors, we headed to the nearest attraction on the north shore of the island.
A mere 15-minute drive took us to the Queen’s Bath trailhead. One quick glance at the trail was enough to realize that there was no way to carry the baby down this muddy path. I hiked to the lava shore by myself.
Queen’s Bath Trail Facts
- Distance: 0.8 mile, round trip
- Elevation gain: Approximately 120 feet
- Difficulty: An easy, but normally muddy trail
- Time: 50-60 minutes
Note: The Queen’s Bath Trail may be closed during the winter season for safety reasons.
Hiking along Queen’s Bath Trail
Starting as a series of smudged stairs, the trail soon turned into a narrow, steep, and extremely slippery pathway. It could be more appropriate for sledding (never mind the absence of the snow) if only massive tree roots didn’t stick out all over the trail.
“The roots are your friends. Hold onto them,” said a slender woman when she walked past me on her way back to the trailhead. Looking at her covered with mud hands and feet, I took her advice seriously. Throughout the entire hike to the Queen’s Bath and then back to the car, I kept grabbing onto the roots to support and balance myself.
It worked as I never once slipped and ended up with my face down in the mud or on my button. I couldn’t say the same about some hikers I encountered on the trail.
As I went farther into the jungle, I met only a few other adventurers, mostly hiking in small groups of 3 to 6 people. After a “Hi”, my new acquaintances quickly shared other tips on how to conquer the Queen’s Bath Trail. Some of them even offered a helpful hand when the tree roots failed to assist me.
Those few who had fallen in the muddy puddles on the trail, were joking about their bad luck. I laughed with them, but kept holding tighter onto the trees when I could.
Waterfalls
Halfway through the hike, I spotted first out of two Queen’s Bath waterfalls. Tumbling from the height of about 15-30 feet, the water ended in a small, tranquil pool. Raw and unspoiled, the upper waterfall was a perfect spot to rest and regain strength before resuming the hike.
Approximately 7 minutes later I stumbled upon the second (lower) waterfall that looked more like a stream. This one was open to the surf and strong winds blowing from the ocean. It cascaded into a churning inlet surrounded by cooled volcanic rocks. The place looked beautiful, but the infamous Queen’s Bath continued beckoning me.
Queen’s Bath at Last
I don’t know what I expected, but the Queen’s Bath surprised me. Protected from the Pacific by large rocks, the natural tide pond resembled a large swimming pool. From time to time, the ocean water spilled over the hardened lava to refresh the pool. Inside it, small fish and tiny sea creatures, such as Hawaiian sea urchins and angelfish, swam undisturbed.
Open to the wind and big North Pacific surf, the “lava beach” takes you aback with its roughness. It’s definitely not a place to spread out a beach towel and sunbathe. For all it takes and offers, the area is good for an adventure, hiking, and occasional swimming, but only in the summer when the tide is low.
Read More
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