One of the biggest waterfalls on the Big Island of Hawaii, Waiānuenue Falls is better known as Rainbow Falls for a very good reason.
Last updated: November 27, 2024
A Beautiful Waterfall in Hilo
Tucked away behind a spacious parking lot just a five-minute drive from downtown Hilo, Rainbow Falls is a roaring waterfall, admired both rain and shine. The number of observers would probably be even larger if not for one specific feature of the area.
It rains a lot in this part of the Big Island of Hawaii. Heavy tears can drop from the overcast sky unexpectedly, maintaining the heavy flow of Rainbow Falls throughout the year.
Visiting Rainbow Falls
We arrived at Wailuku River State Park, home to Rainbow Falls, during one of those sudden rainy outbursts. According to the weather forecast, we had at least three more hours of a rain-free window to explore the eastern side of the Big Island.
Having parked at the far end of the parking lot, we gazed at the rainy veil, so dense you could slice it with an imaginary knife, through the window of the car and waited. Then waited some more. The rain never stopped. Oblivious to any modern weather radars, Rainbow Falls and one of its closest siblings, Akaka Falls, both surrounded by lush tropical vegetation, create their own rules and weather.
We, the curious intruders, had to abide by the laws of nature. And so after some unsuccessful waiting, we stepped into Hawaiian warm rain and headed to Rainbow Falls.
Wailuku River State Park
At 80 feet, Rainbow Falls is the tallest site in Wailuku River State Park. Like a crown prince, the waterfall overlooks the area, dropping its precious waters over a lava cave into the Wailuku River.
The legendary river doesn’t let the royal gifts go unnoticed. Drop by drop, it accumulates all its treasures in a large pool at the foot of the waterfall. Yet the untamed waters don’t stay here. At the far left end of the pond, the Wailuku River finds an escape and continues flowing eastward before entering the Pacific Ocean.
Wailuku River State Park can be reached via Waianuenue Avenue and Rainbow Drive. A decent size parking lot sits in front of the Rainbow Falls Overlook. To the left of it is a single structure that serves as a shelter from rain and a restroom facility. Signage with a set of rules of what to do and not to do while visiting Rainbow Falls looms from the top of the stairs leading to the structure.
Rainbows at Rainbow Falls
From the Hawaiian language, waiānuenue is translated as “rainbow water”. This name was chosen for a very good reason. On a sunny day, rainbows form above the waterfall when sunlight eliminates the mist at a particular angle. The dazzling natural phenomena are best observed in the morning.
On a rainy day, just like the one when we visited Rainbow Falls, only the rising haze lingers above the pool and both sides of the waterfall.
Lookout and Short Hike Up Narrow Stairs
Rainbow Falls has beckoned visitors for more than 100 years. In the old days, one could reach the spectacular Big Island’s site on foot or by riding a horse. Today, it’s an easy drive-up destination right near downtown Hilo. Just park and stare in awe at the powerful waterfall.
The Rainbow Falls Lookout is indeed unmissable. Sitting at the front end of the parking lot, it informs of the existence of the waterfall with thundering splashes and amazing views.
Upper Rainbow Falls, distant views of other waterfalls and pools, and the churning currents of the Wailuku River as it flows above Rainbow Falls open up from a short, about 0.1-mile, stair-trail nestled to the left of the lookout.
The scenic path terminates at a banyan grove. Here somewhat shielding the scene up front, several signs warn the hikers not to veer off the official trail and head to the right, where the water in the upper pools “boils” and swirls.
Other Landmarks to See: Approximately 1.5-mile drive up the Wailuku River from Rainbow Falls are located Pe’epe’e Falls with Boiling Pots at its bottom. Both of these landmarks sit within Wailuku River State Park and are free to visit.
Legendary Past of the Wailuku River State Park
An old Hawaiian legend links the Rainbow Falls and Boiling Pots area with the demigod Maui, a legendary hero that, according to yet another legend, fished up the Hawaiian Islands from the sea.
Millions of years ago Hina, Maui’s mother and goddess of moon and ocean, lived in the cave behind Rainbow Falls. A giant lizard (mo’o) named Kuna also called the area along the Wailuku River his home. But instead of peacefully sharing the river banks, the lizard tormented his neighbor by sending torrents of water, logs and debris over Rainbow Falls.
One night during a particularly huge storm, Kuna placed a huge boulder to block the river just below Hina’s cave. The rising water awoke the woman. In despair she called to her son for help.
By the time Maui arrived, no water flew in the Wailuku River and not a drop reached the ocean. With all his might, the demigod struck the riverbank to make a water-way around the rock. The water, stagnant by then, rushed to the ocean at once.
Furious, Maui unleashed his wrath on the treacherous lizard. He lured out Kuna from his hiding spot in a pool right below the Boiling Pots overlook by making the river boiling hot and was sticking him with his club until the lizard fell over the falls.
According to the legend, the giant mo’o still lies at the foot of Rainbow Falls as a large rock in the Wailuku River. Above the waterfall, the waters of Boiling Pots still swirl and boil in remembrance of the ferocious battle of the Hawaiian demigod and giant lizard.
The Best Time to Visit Wailuku River State Park
Rainbow Falls expands in size during the rainy season, from November through March, and can reach up to 100 feet in diameter.
The rain, hugely responsible for tropical lush vegetation, is a frequent occurrence even during the summer. During this time, while some other waterfalls on Oahu and the Big Island dry up or turn into a trickle, Rainbow Falls still impresses with its heavy flow.
From a distance, the site can look like two smaller waterfalls that drop from a cliff above the natural lava cave to converge into one massive drop at its base.
The appearance of the waterfall, however, changes depending on the season. With the lack of consistent external water supply, Rainbow Falls shrinks significantly during the dry summer season.
Things to Know Before Visiting Rainbow Falls
- Hours. Wailuku River State Park is open daily during daylight hours.
- Admission. The park is free and so is parking.
- Drones. Flying drones in Wailuku River Park is not allowed.
- Pets. Animals, except for service dogs, are not welcome at the park.
- Protect Park. When you visit Rainbow Falls, keep in mind that smoking, removal of rocks, littering and dumping the area are also considered illegal activities.
Swimming at Rainbow Falls
Swimming in the pool at the bottom of Rainbow Falls and in the Boiling Pots area is not safe. The currents of the Wailuku River are too strong even when on the surface the river looks calm and manageable. Don’t underestimate the forces of nature on the Big Island.
Some people suggest that you can find some pools more suitable for swimming above Rainbow Falls when the river is relatively still and the weather is dry. There is no lifeguard in Wailuku River State Park. So you are on your own and if you swim, it’s always at your own risk.
Yet with the signs at the end of the short trail to the left of Rainbow Falls and at the Boiling Pots Overlook that prohibit the visitors from walking any farther, I don’t see how you can get to these pools without breaking the law.
So the easiest answer would be to admire the waterfall surrounded by wild ginger and monstera plants from the distance and look for safer swimming pools in other parts of the Big Island.
Read More
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- KAUAI: Queen’s Bath, Kauai: Jungle, Hike, and Waterfalls
- ROAD TO HANA, MAUI: Road to Hana (and Rainy Back Road to Hana) in March
